How to Install Shingles - Part 2 | Homeowners Guide to Shingle Roof Replacement
The following article is Part 2 of a 5 Part Series from our of roofing articles library titled, "A Homeowners Guide to Shingle Roof Replacement".
The staff at General Roofing Systems Canada regularly contribute to our roofing article library with knowledge they gain day to day in the field. To request articles online for specific roofing informational requirements click here.
For a detailed look at "How to Install a Shingle Roof" with detailed explanations, photos, and videos from the shingle installers on the roof, visit our shingle installers roofing blog.
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General Roofing Systems Canada Provides Expert Shingle Installation Services in Vancouver, Whistler, Kelowna, Canmore, Calgary, Red Deer, Edmonton, Lethbridge, Medicine Hat, Lloydminster, Saskatoon, Regina, Winnipeg, Toronto and points between.
Introduction - Simply the Best Shingled Roof
The way your roof shingles are installed is very easily more important than the shingle material used.
There are many ways to "short" a roof shingle installation. Many shingle installers don’t even know they are installing the shingles to an inferior specification, and of course some just don’t want to put in that little extra work to install the shingles to the highest and best standards.
Installing a quality shingled roof does cost more. It takes more time, it takes an experienced shingle installer, and the shingle materials - such as roof underlay and roof drip edge also cost money.
But a great shingle installer, supplied with the right accessory roofing materials, can install a 30 year shingle system that will last longer than a 50 year shingle or lifetime shingle that was installed just average or poorly. So who really gets the best value for their money?
Our Service Philosophy and Roof Shingle Application Guarantee
Because General Roofing Systems Canada has a Lifetime Workmanship Guarantee, we cannot compromise our shingle installations with inferior shingle material, shoddy shingle installation methods, or roofing installers that just don't care. We are tied to our shingle installation workmanship – we can’t get it wrong.
When you get a shingled roof from General Roofing Systems, we only accept one way – the best shingle material, the best shingle installers, and the best shingle application specifications.
Prospective customers do ask us to lower our shingle installation specifications at times to save some cost, but we can't. We guarantee our workmanship for the lifetime you own your home or business. Lowering our shingle application specifications would cause us to have to change our workmanship guarantee and our principles - we are only interested in putting on the best shingle roof you can own.
Below is the same shingle installation "how to" checklist and shingle installation specification manual that our purchasers, shingle installers, managers, and inspectors use to prepare and install a shingled roof on your home. It is very detailed and a long read, and perhaps sometime soon we'll find time to shorten it and re write it to be more user friendly for prospective clients, but for now it will assist those interested in how a properly shingled roof goes on.
Holding your shingle installer to a proper application principle will add many, many years to your roof and it won’t leak and cause you problems. And most importantly, it provides simple piece of mind.
Our Shingle Installation Manual / Checklist
Introduction (Safety and Site Organization, Quality, Site Conduct, and Speed)
- Many shingle installers believe speed to be their primary value and this can become priority number one. Speed is valuable, but only after Safety, Quality, and Site Conduct is mastered.
- Safety is the shingle installers number one priority. It cannot be compromised. General Roofing Systems Canada has a CSO (construction safety officer) that is assigned to your roof and spot inspections are carried out. Shinglers found in contravention of our safety policies will be immediately removed from the work site. We do not tolerate safety violations.
- Site Organization is second to safety but also considered first and works hand in hand with safety, take your time and be sure everything is in place prior to anyone getting on the roof. It will allow you to work safe, organized, and with quality foremost on your mind instead of being disorganized, making errors, and being unsafe.
- Quality is your number two priority. This also cannot be compromised. We pride ourselves on the fact that we DO NOT receive calls to fix leaks after we shingle a roof.
We earn our living never going back to our roofs and fixing shingle roofs that other shingle installers have miss-applied.
- Site Conduct is your number three priority, and for the most part it is self explanatory and is everything we all learned in kindergarten.
- Speed can then be learned.
Preparation and Safety
- The client must be informed that work is about to commence on the roof.
o Discuss vehicles that may be blocked, vehicles that may get damaged, children in the area playing, patio furniture that needs to be moved, taking pictures etc down from walls, work schedules, etc.
- A tool box meeting must first be conducted and tool box meeting documentation executed.
- A site hazard assessment must be executed.
- A fall plan must be executed.
- All safety equipment must be inspected.
- Ropes and harnesses and jacks and planks must be used.
- Shirts must stay on and shirts must have sleaves.
- Ladders must be tied off and be 3 rungs above the eave.
- Ladders must have ladder arms.
- If material is dropped from the roof there must be a ground spotter appointed.
- Hard hats must be worn when on ground.
- Radios, if used at all, should be at most barely audible from the ground.
Attic Space, Roof Ventilation, Condensation, Roof Rot, Etc.
The attic space of the home must be inspected for moisture and proper ventilation prior to the shingles being installed. A re roof is of no value if the attic space has problems that will ultimately land the home-owner in exactly the same place.
The shingles are being replaced and the client is paying good money to get a roofing system that is intended for its specified design, use and purpose. To install a new shingle roof and leave an attic not ventilating properly is really delivering only half a job - the homeowner is paying full price for a new shingled roof that will only last 1/2 to 3/4 as long as it should have. This happens all the time! Homeowners contract shingle installation "experts" all the time to re-roof their roof and the so called "shingle experts" never check the inside of the roof attic space. The writer of this shingle installation guideline worked for shingle companies for years that never once instructed their shingle installation crews to inspect attics prior to shingle re roofing - almost criminal if you think about it, but in most instances it is the shingle installation companies themselves that don't even know the significance and consequences.
Most times, one of our field managers or superintendents have done the attic inspection. If it has been done, your work order will show the results and recommendations for roof air venting etc and the details will be part of your re roofing work order. However, in some cases, the attic inspection has not occurred and it then becomes the responsibility of the roof shingle installers.
Roof ventilation inspection checklists and information that you will need to do attic inspections are included at these links (prior to assessing roof attics a supervisor will train you onsite for what responsibility you have as a shingle installer as it concerns the attic space);
Client Property: Ground Tarps, Bins, Trailers, and Yard Area
- Tarps must be used below any area you are working to protect buildings, gardens, neighboring houses, furnishings, barbeque’s etc.
- Vehicles must be moved away from the residence, planters, furniture, etc. Decks and railings must be covered.
- Clients must remove vehicles from their garage if a bin will be left in the driveway.
- Sheathing must be put down on the driveway prior to a bin being dropped to avoid damage.
- Ladder arms must be used to avoid damage to clients gutters.
- Bundles are not to be dropped on the roof surface or from the roof to ground.
Shingle Installation Procedures | How to Install Shingles to the GRS Specification
- How to Install Shingles - Manufacturer Specifications
o Shingle Manufacturer specifications must be followed for the client to have a shingle warranty that is worth anything at all. Review shingle bundle wrappers prior to starting for specific application specs the manufacturer may have for that particular shingle product type. Mis-application of the shingles may void the client’s shingle warranty.
o If the shingle manufacturer’s specifications are in conflict with our standard GRS shingle installation procedures, the manufacturer specifications are to be used.
- How to Install Shingle Roof Underlayment or Roof Membrane - Introduction
o Sloped (Pitched) roofing or roof shingles are thought of as water-shedding and flat roofing is thought of as water-proofing. Tile roofing has a similar perspective to flat roofers, in that it is more like water-proofing.
o Most sloped roofers (shinglers), unless trained in flats or roof tiling don’t have the understanding or training to know what it means to waterproof a roof system, mostly because sloped shingle roofs allow for quick run off and only water-shedding is required. However, there are many reasons a sloped roofer should learn to waterproof effectively, such as dead valleys, ice back up at the roof eaves and behind vents, etc. Easily 90% of our shingle roof leak calls are specifically because a competitor did not teach proper water proofing to their roof shingle installers (or hold them accountable to proper water proofing principles).
o At GRS, our shingle installers are required to “waterproof” the roof and not just “water shed” with the roofing underlay. This will be a dramatic difference in daily work habits for most sloped roof shinglers, even those with decades of experience.
o Our roofing underlay is done in a way so that even if the roof had no shingles on it for a long, long, time – the roof system would still be waterproof.
o All of our shingle installers are required over a period of time to be certified in all manners of roofing for this specific reason. Flat roofers understand what waterproofing is, so a shingler that becomes certified in flat roofing, is a great roof underlay applicator for our shingle spec and has no call backs when they install shingles. Likewise, the principles that a roof tiler uses to apply roof underlay enable him/her to waterproof a shingle roof so much better.
- How to Install Roof Underlayment - Roofing Underlayment Application Principles
§ Wrap The Whole Roof Deck. The whole roof must be wrapped with no negative laps in the underlay. Many shingle installers only provide for the eave to have underlay, or perhaps no ice and water protection at the eaves or valleys at all and use only light bond 15# felt paper, and some will felt the whole roof and some not. We don’t compromise our underlay. The whole roof must be wrapped and the underlayment must be premium grade such as IKO Gold Shield Underlay for the ice and water peel and stick at eaves, valleys, and around penetrations and Titanium Synthetic Underlay for the roof field area.
§ Water-proofing not Water-shedding. Every single inch on the roof must be covered in roof underlayment, and covered in such a way that there are no negative laps, no wood shows anywhere, and every opening and flashing is properly waterproofed prior to the shingles being installed. After our installers have applied underlay, we should be able to run a hose and there should be no roof leak.
o Ice and Water Guard and Felt Paper
§ Most shingle installers do not use underlay on steep slopes (and for the warranty in most cases they are not required to), however, we never shingle and leave a roof - of any slope, with-out a premium underlay to the whole roof.
§ Lower slope roofs get Ice and Water Guard to the whole roof deck as prescribed in the work order.
§ We use 44” ice and water guard or peel and stick, not the standard 36”. The extra 12” at the eave is very critical for back up. On 4/12 you need to put two rows of ice and water at the eave or cover the whole deck depending on the spec the home owner has chosen.
§ We use ice and water on every eave, in every valley before and after the valley metal goes in, and on every vent, opening, chimney backpan, chimney stack aperture, etc.
§ The valley vertical ice and water is installed BEFORE the horizontal field underlay with the exception of the first row of ice and water underlayment right at the eave. The horizontal membrane or underlay is to run in to the valley. Then the valley metal on top and then ice and water membrane is run vertically up the valley on either side of the valley metal on both sides of the valley. Yes, we know that it is excessive, but we do this because no water can get under the valley metal, no water or ice can back up in the valley and under the underlay. The underlay and flashing then becomes a monolithic application style.
§ When installing ice and water in the valley, be sure there are no air pocket areas etc. The valley underlay must be in the valley snug and tight do that when someone accidentally steps in it, it will not tear. Also, if the valley flashing is compromised later long after you are gone, if you have the underlay in there tight, and because it is self adhered, it will keep the clients roof water tight until the next maintenance check up (not to mention the metal installed on top of every valley).
§ When you are running the underlay horizontally toward hips, the underlay is to be wrapped at the hip and not cut short as many shinglers installers would do. And then again from the other side it is wrapped again.
§ When you are running the underlay horizontally and you get to the ridge, most shinglers will leave 6” or a foot or whatever instead of taking the time to run a partial piece, do not do this, you must wrap the ridge in underlay from both directions.
§ In BC you must run the underlay over the eave and rake/gable but in Sask and Alberta we do not. In Sask and Alberta most shinglers will run it flush to the eave, but we actually run it over the eave about ½”.
§ About half of the shingle roofing companies use drip edge standard and very few use rake edge flashing standard…. We use drip edge and rake edge on every occasion. And because we always use drip and rake/gable flashing, you can easily run your underlay over the edge and then the flashing will cover it (BC has specific regulations with reference to this process you need to be aware of).
§ When installing an air vent, or a gooseneck, or a chimney stack etc the followingice and water membrane procedures for the backside of roof openings applies… pay close attention to this as most roof leaks we fix is because of shingle installers that do not do this correctly.
· Take the air vent or whatever, turn it over, caulk the bottom with a continuous bead, if it isn’t continuous – do it again.
· Put the air vent down, nail the vent, and then install ice and water membrane on the top side and the two sides – three sides – this is called neck tying your roof openings.
· Some shinglers are accustomed to putting a starter shingle in behind their roof air vents and roof openings, if this is te way you install roof openings, you can still put the starter shingle in also as long as you caulk the underside of the vent and use the ice and water membrane to neck tie. The neck tie will not allow ice, snow, or water back up under the shingle and in to the attic should the shingle be compromised for whatever reason. Also note that you cannot have a shingle connection at the back section of a vent opening either.
· After the ice and water underlayment is neck tied, and you re-commence installing shingles, be sure that when you are installing the shingles around the backside of the vent, that you do not nail in to the shingle, then through the ice and water and then in to the vent flange and in to the roof deck. You must install the shingles without driving a nail through the shingle and in to that vent anywhere once the ice and water membrane is on the vent flange.
- Roof Flashings - How to Install Roof Flashing and Roof Valleys
o Roof Flashing Orders
§ We order the best roof flashings on the market. All our flashings are ordered colored and are the highest grade or guage available. Due to the variances in flashing profiles, consult our installation management for direction as required.
o How to Install Drip Edge Roof Flashing
§ Drip edge roof flashing must be overlapped at least 4”.
§ Only nail drip edge roof flashing from one end through to the other end, do not start in two areas like the ends and meet in the middle - if done incorrectly, the roof drip edge flashing will buckle and you will see a hump in the shingles from the ground at the eave edge area of the roof.
§ Drip edge roof flashing must be wrapped on the ends where they meet (like at the bottom of a hip where two pieces of drip roof edge meet).
o How to Install Rake Edge Roof Flashing (Gable end flashing)
§ Gable edge flashing must be overlapped just as roof drip edge flashing and you must start at bottom of the gable edge and work your way up the gable roof line overlapping gable flashing as you go up.
§ The nailing pattern is the same with gable edge flashing as with drip edge flashing - start at one end (hand nailing edge flashing is much better than using your shingle nailer).
§ Rake or gable flashing must also be wrapped also to give a nice clean look from the ground.
o How to Install Roof Valley Flashing
§ Many shingle installers do not use valley flashing as a standard. We will not install a shingle roof that does not have valley flashing in the specification. If the client does not like the look of an open valley with the roof valley flashing exposed, we still insist valley flashing be installed (even if it is underneath a closed valley shingles).
§ When installing valley flashing to a roof, we run the valley flashing right through past the eave and we cut the valley to the wood shape. We do not leave te valley flashing short, the whole area right to the eave and over is covered in metal. And yes, we know that many shingle installers will just set their valley in and leave eave sheathing areas exposed - we don’t.
§ Our starter shingles must be run through and under the valley metal (not over). So the starter shingle is overlapped from both sides coming in to and under the valley metal.
§ Our job is to make the framers look good. DO NOT follow poor framing in a roof valley. When you look from the ground straight up in to a valley that has valley flahsing installed, it must be dead straight. Even if your valley metal has to “float” a bit in some areas.
§ Valley metal must be overlapped at least 6” installed working from the eave area of the roof up. Many shingle installers overlook a proper overlap in the valley and this can cause major leaks when ice, snow, and water back up in the valley.
§ At the top, when installing roof valley metal, the valley metal must be wrapped. Our principle is to wrap the whole roof. So when you have two valleys come up from two sides of a dormer, the valley is wrapped on both sides of the dormer over the dormer ridge. And then, a section of valley metal must be cut and installed at the top over both sides of valley. And yes again, we understand or "how to shingle a roof" is extreme, but if the shingle capping is compromised (someone like the Christmas light installer steps on the shingle capping), the valley metal being wrapped and the ice and water membrane being wrapped then keeps the roof water tight right to the ridge. Also, after installing the piece of metal flashing at the top area of the valley, ice and water membrane must be adhered to the back side (top side) of the metal.
§ Valley flashing that is crimped or bent prior to installation in the roof valley CANNOT be installed, even if it looks ok after it has been crimped. Valley metal that has been crimped is compromised, even if it looks ok. At some point in the future the valley metal will snap open as metal expands and contracts during seasonal changes, and when the valley has a hole in it, this is a very bad roof leak area.
Shake Roof Re Roofing to Asphalt Shingles - The Old Flashing Issues at the Wall
A final note on the installation of colored roof flashing and roof flashing protocols. With a shake roof re roof to an asphalt shingle, the profile of the shake that was once on the roof was higher than the new shingle. Typically, this will leave a large gap at the roof to wall connection and the galvanized step flashing or wall flashing will stick out like a sore thumb. Many customers that receive a shake to asphalt re roof will not like the look of that flashing at the wall - they can see it more now. Many shingle companies won't do anything about it... some do. GRS installs coloured beauty flashing up the wall and at the wall, we don't condone painting the old flashing because painting roof flashings causes maintenance for the home owner. It is best to install a nice high gauge step flashing or wall flashing depending on what is required. This goes for any roof openings etc. A roof with coloured flashing detail looks so much better when the re roof is completed. It is the best way to re roof a home.
- Shingle Nailing Patterns - How to Install Shingle Nails
o Laminate Strip on Shingles. With laminate shingles, a minimum of four nails must hit the laminate strip unless storm nailing is required, in which case six nails must hit the strip. We expect our shingle installers to six nail every shingle roof. The nailing lines on the front face of the roofing shingle are not to be followed as factory marked shingle nailing lines are inconsistent and vary from shingle manufacturer to manufacturer. It is the laminate strip on the back of the roofing shingle that is important. The nails must hit this double laminate strip.
o Shingle End Nails. The nails on the ends of the shingle must be within one inch of the end of the shingle on both ends. Just this is significant with high winds and shingle blow offs
o High Nails on Shingles. When using a pneumatic shingle nailer, you must be sure all nails are set in to the shingle flush. Hammer down shingle nails that are not driven properly. This is especially aggravating when on roof decks made out of thinner sheathing because the shingle nail gun will bounce of the roof sheathing and cause the nail to many times not fully engage the roof sheathing. Hand nailing shingles is best, but we understand the reality of production when installing shingles.
o It is preferable that when four nails are required that a minimum of five or six are used when installing each shingle and when six are required seven are used in each shingle. We supply our shingle installers with all fasteners and extra on every site for this purpose.
o When installing shingles and nailing a rake edge or gable end of the roof that is west or north-west exposed, a second nail on the end or being sure a nail gets in to a fascia board on the end is required. Alternatively, tabbing those ends with caulking is also acceptable.
o Starter shingle must be nailed as close to the roof eave edge as possible. Do not nail your shingle high at the roof edge area - the wind will catch the starter shingles.
o At the gable ends, you must be sure your nails are straight so they do not come through side of gable flashing.
o When re-roofing a roof shake rip with open soffit areas you cannot nail shake nails down as they will be visible from the underside. It is proper practice to pull all your old roofing nails on a re roof rip anyway as the nails left in the roof sheathing will give you problems.
- Roof Caulking - How to Install Roof Caulking
o After installing the valley flashing, a bead of metal caulking must be run vertically up the valley prior to installing starter.
o If there is galvanized metal on the roof, only use clear caulking when exposed.
o For dark shingles, only dark caulking and for light grey colored shingles only grey caulking. We prefer to use Karnak caulking on roofs as it is rubber reinforced asphalt caulking. It is expensive but it won't break down in the UV like a standard black jack roof caulking will.
o All vents, stacks, etc must be caulked.
o When installing a back-pan, you must use caulking at the back side deck area.
o All exposed nails in cap must be caulked.
o In high wind applications the North and West side shingles must be tabbed.
o The North and West facing shingle gable ends must always be caulked.
- Storm Nailing Shingles
o When you are in a high wind area such as on the edge of a city or town or out in the country, storm nailing is mandatory.
o A minimum of six nails must hit the laminate strip.
o Tabbing all shingles on the complete deck on the West and North faces is also required.
o All capping must be tabbed with caulking also.
- Shingle Placement - How to Install Roof Shingles
o The ends of starter roofing shingles must be offset from the field area shingles by at least 6”.
o We drop our roof shingles 1/16” beyond or lower than typical shingle installation row by row placement. The reason we do this, even though we use more shingle material, is that it increases lift resistance on the shingle. It is critical that you drop every row of shingles 1/16" beyond normal. Shinglers that use pneumatic nailers with gauges, will be required to reset their gauge to allow for this GRS spec. Dropping our shingle rows at time of installation has completely done away with roof blow offs.
o Shingle Stepping. Every shingle manufacturer has a specification as it relates to the allowed shingle step up distance for each row of shingles. This must be followed. The shingles are engineered to shed water in a very specific way. Laminate shingles are almost never to be stepped or installed in a box like pattern like a traditional 3 tab shingle. And some, very few, 3 tab types require stepping and cannot be boxed when installed like the traditional 3 tab. Check the shingle wrapper every single time. There are many shinglers that have not changed shingle installation methods as they were used to installing 3 tab shingles for decades before laminate shingles came along, but laminate shingles are not installed the same way. A shingle manufacturer’s warranty is compromised when shingle step up placement is wrong.
o Valley shingle installation - How to Install Shingles in a Valley
§ After the ice and water membrane is installed, then the valley flashing, then ice and water membrane on either side of the valley flashing and then a bead of Karnak caulking run up the valley, it is time to install the roofing shingles in the valley.
§ A starter row of shingles must be installed straight up vertically in the valley following a chaulk line. Set the roof shingles on the Karnak caulking, and nail the shingles. The starter shingle, with the caulking underneath, will ensure no water or ice and snow will run out of the roof valley and in to the roof field area. And even if it does somehow get under the valley starter shingle and through the caulking, you still have ice and water membrane installed over the valley flashing on both sides of the valley flashing and also ice and water under the valley flashing. Valleys are the number one area on a shingle roof for serious leak problems, the GRS specification for shingling a roof valley is the best roofing valley system by far on the market.
§ After the starter shingles are installed up each side of the valley, you can then begin to shingle as you normally would. Note, until 2011 GRS did not condone the use of California valleys. We know that most shinglers are installing shingles as California valleys nowadays, but we didn't until 2011. This was prior to 2011 a sticking point with some shingle manufacturers for shingle warranties as the shingle manufacturers didn't know if it would work. But now after over a decade, everyone is in agreement that California valleys installed on shingle roofs may be better than the traditional valley installation method. Bottom line is that California shingle valleys work if done right like anything else in shingling.
§ When installing a traditional shingle valley, when running the shingles in to the valley they must run right through and be cut.
§ The tips of the shingles must be cropped at the top of the shingle closest to the valley.
§ No nails are to be within 8” of the centre of any valley.
§ If you are installing a closed valley, you must install the metal per instructions for open valleys either way. And even with a closed valley, a bead of caulking is still required with a starter shingle vertically from bottom to the top of the valley.
o When installing shingles in the main field area of the roof, as you get close to the ridge of the roof, be sure the ridge framing is straight (or perfectly parallel) to your shingle line, if when you are 3-5 rows away and you are not going to be perfectly straight with your shingles at the ridge of the roof, start chaulking lines as it needs to be dead straight at ridge.
o When installing shingles in the field area to meet on both sides of a dormer, shingle the most noticeable side first, and when you get the field area to the top of the dormer area, chalk a line straight across to be sure the other side matches perfectly.
o When installing shingles in the field are of the roof, your horizontal rows must stay straight, if they are out any more than 2” from one side of the roof to the other, the roof fails under our single installation principles.
Housekeeping (Yard Clean Up)
- Good site housekeeping is required. Daily site must be clean on the ground and on the roof. A nail magnet must be used to remove all nails on re roofs. All cigarette butts, shingles, wrappers, etc. must be picked up. During application, job sites are to be kept free of hazardous debris during roof installation. Gutters on re roofs and the inside of house on new construction are to be cleaned and roof and grounds swept upon completion. If you are leaving equipment at the site for us to pick up, it must be in a location agreed to and be placed at ground level and be organized for ease of pick up.
- Alcohol, drugs, and fowl language are not allowed on site.
- Smoking is not allowed on site.
- On residential sites, radios are to be just audible at ground level and no louder. On commercial sites they are not allowed.
- Safety harnesses and ropes are to be used at all times as required.
- Roof jacks / brackets must not be placed more than 6 feet apart and must be attached to the roof truss and not simply the sheathing.
- Compressors are not allowed on the roof.
- Bundles are not to be dropped from the roof to the ground.
- Bundles are not to be dropped heavily on the roof sheathing during work progress.
- A ground spotter is required when throwing material to the ground.
- Roof must be cleaned every night of all debris and no tools are to be left on site at end of day on roof or on client’s property.
- Do not cover tarps over top of chimney’s, furnaces and fireplaces can suffocate and cause injury or death.
- Always notify home owner prior to commencing work on the roof.
- Gutters must be left spotless.
- Client property must be left spotless every day.
About Our Shingle Roofing Installers
We hire shingle roofing installers and labor support on character and attitude and not ability. Ability can be trained.
We hire shingle roofing installation managers that are known to be the best at what they do - deep in knowledge and experience.
We remunerate in accordance to our expectation to be the best at what they do. We maintain a very competitive base pay scale and honour great roofing work with quality and performance bonuses and we maintain a company benefits plan.
We invest in our people. Our shingle roofers are company sponsored and certified in all categories of roof application for sloped and flat roofing (or are booked to be certified if they are new to the company).
Our single re roof / roof replacement installation checklist is very detailed and to the highest acceptable roofing standard, and is checked by the foreman and installation manager on every shingle re roof.
And perhaps most importantly, every person on your roof results driven partner. This means we have control over every detail and level of roof application standards. Our roofing teams are results driven through a company profit sharing plan tied directly to their performance, quality, and character displayed in the field.
Roofers that care about how and what they are doing - many of us consider it a lifetime craft, a roof on your home that is the best we know how to put on, and a new customer that is secured for years to come with a roof that will last and perform as it was designed - or hopefully better.
HOW TO SHINGLE A ROOF:
PART 1 - "INTRODUCTION" | A HOME OWNER'S GUIDE TO SHINGLE ROOF REPLACEMENT
PART 2 - "INSTALLING A SHINGLE ROOF TO THE HIGHEST STANDARD | A HOME OWNER'S GUIDE TO ROOF REPLACEMENT
PART 4 - "CHOOSING THE RIGHT SHINGLE MATERIAL" | A HOME OWNER'S GUIDE TO ROOF REPLACEMENT
PART 5 - "SHINGLE ROOF MATERIAL WARRANTIES AND SHINGLE INSTALLER WORKMANSHIP GUARANTEES" | A HOME OWNER'S GUIDE TO ROOF REPLACEMENT
Request a FREE Mailing or Email of Parts 1 - 5 of "A HOMEOWNERS GUIDE TO SHINGLE ROOF REPLACEMENT" Click Here
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